What is a Veterinary Behaviourist?

A Veterinary Behaviourist in Australia is a qualified veterinarian, who has undertaken post graduate studies and examination in Veterinary Behaviour.

There are different qualifications for Veterinary Behaviourists, reflecting different levels of education in Behaviour.

Some will have a:
MANZCVSc qualification which means they are veterinarians with some additional training and assessment by examination in Veterinary Behaviour.

Others will have a:
FACVSc, or DACVB, or specialist registration in Veterinary Behaviour, which means they have been assessed through rigorous examination, been supervised by a specialist in 100′s of behaviour consultations and met other criteria indicating a high standard of practice in Veterinary Behaviour.

What does a Veterinary Behaviourist do?

Veterinary Behaviourists……

• are qualified and skilled in diagnosing and treating behaviour problems.
• can access if there are any medical conditions that may be contributing to your pet’s undesirable behaviour.
• can access if your pet shows abnormal levels of anxiety, stress, fear, hyperactivity, aggressive reactivity etc which may be contributing to your pet’s behaviour.
• can explain to you why your pet is behaving the way s/he does.
• can develop an effective treatment plan tailored to meet the needs of you and your pet.
• can provide on-going support in modifying your pet’s behaviour
• can supply appropriate medication if indicated.
• can give you an idea of the chances of improving behaviour.

Everyone has had an experience with a barking dog, I am sure – the terrier next door whose high-pitched yapping pierces the calm of your day, the sudden outbursts of barking at passers-by from the Heeler down the road, or even the neighbour who confronts you with “If you don’t stop your dog barking all day while you are at work, I am going to call the Council!” This last comment was the reason that Benson, a two-year old male Labrador Retriever was brought to Good Pet Behaviour earlier this year.

However, the apparently simple question “How can I stop my dog barking?” can have quite a complicated answer – and it’s a different answer for each dog and situation!

Barking is a normal behaviour for dogs – some breeds have been bred to bark (for hunting, for example), and other breeds bark less. (The Basenji, for example, is renowned for not barking.) Also important, though, is what the dog has learnt through experience about barking, especially in the critical early period of socialisation. Owners can inadvertently encourage and reward barking – and barking can have its own intrinsic rewards, if the dog gains attention, for example, by doing it. Then there is the dog’s environment – the postman delivering mail, for example, might be the prompt for a dog to bark. (And this behaviour, from the dog’s point of view, is “successful: every time the dog barks, the postman goes away! The behaviour “works”, so the dog keeps doing it.)

So in answering the question “How do I stop my dog barking?”, the absolutely critical part is to work out why the dog is barking in the first place. It also stands to reason that with multiple possible causes of a dog barking, a single solution, appropriate in all cases, is highly unlikely. And an inappropriate approach can actually exacerbate the problem rather than cure it!

Amongst common reasons for dogs to bark are: separation anxiety, territory protection, boredom, attention-seeking, pain and senility – but this is not a complete list by any means.

Dr Debbie Calnon from Good Pet Behaviour, who saw Benson the barking Labrador, began by taking a long and detailed history of when and where the barking occurred, when it began, what were the apparent causes, and so on. Benson’s case was a little tricky in that the barking happened in the owner’s absence, so some surreptitious video-monitoring was used to observe Benson when his owner was at work.

The assessment made was that poor Benson – a young, active dog – was in fact bored and understimulated, with a degree of attention-seeking and inherent excitability underlying the excessive barking problem. Since the owner’s move to the new house, Benson’s exercise regime had been curtailed, and his previous large garden was now a smaller courtyard without outside views.

Given that Benson’s barking was due to a number of factors, Dr Debbie Calnon’s treatment was also multi-factorial. Benson’s owner asked about various “quick fix” anti-barking treatments that she had heard of, but these are not appropriate given that Benson really needed increased physical exercise, mental stimulation and human interaction.

The key to Benson’s treatment was environmental enrichment – keeping him occupied with quiet activities, leaving less time for barking – as well as increasing his exercise, which enhances serotonin, a calming brain-chemical. Benson now has a good walk with his owner before as well as after work, and an older neighbour (not the source of the original complaint!) was found who is very happy to walk Benson in the middle of the day. In addition, leaving Benson with a large raw bone, and providing him with his food for the day in a slow-release food device was also a help. And a program of reward-based training was begun: Benson now has to work for his treats, and just loves the mental stimulation involved.

Addressing and managing a barking problem can be a challenge – especially as in this case where there is pressure for rapid improvement. However with a thorough approach and a committed owner, the results can be very rewarding. In Benson’s case, he is now a much happier boy, less bored and more stimulated, and neighbourhood peace – in both senses! – has been restored.

There are few things more distressing for the dog owner than having one’s pet attacked by another dog – but it can also be very distressing when one’s own dog is the aggressor, and every walk or play-session is spent in anticipation of trouble.

A recent case of Dr Debbie Calnon’s is Millie. She’s a two year old Terrier-cross – her parentage is uncertain but she looks like a Staffordshire Bull Terrier crossed with a whippet, if that is possible! She’s a lovely, friendly dog who happily greets strangers at the door and is very pleased with any interaction – human, that is….

However over the past year, her owner has noticed an increasing trend: Millie’s happy-go-lucky personality tends to evaporate when she sees another dog – there is a tense stand-off with stiff postures and raised tails, and twice in the last month this has deteriorated into a snarling fight between the dogs, with Millie as the initiator. Luckily no damage has been done – but Millie’s owner wants to prevent this happening, of course, in the future. She also wants to Millie to be able to enjoy the company of other dogs without worrying that she’ll cause a fight – and for herself to enjoy Millie’s daily walks as a pleasant, rather than stressful, occasion for them both!

So why do some dogs get “grumpy” with others?

Certainly early socialisation plays a big part in how dogs relate to each other. This is why Puppy Classes are invaluable, so that dogs can learn as puppies the “social skills” they need as adult dogs. Learning from bad experiences also has a role – and here Millie’s owner remembered a significant event: prior to the start of Millie’s aggression, she was herself a victim in the park, when a big Golden Retriever with whom she had been playing quite happily, suddenly turned on her and had her pinned to the ground, squealing. Such an experience, and the fear of it happening again can feed into “pre-emptive” aggression – aggression often stems from anxiety, fear and uncertainty rather than being a primary personality trait.

Heredity does also play a part, however – happy, outgoing “friendly” dogs and breeds tend to pass these traits on to their offspring. Of course many dog breeds have originally been bred as hunters or even fighters, so in these breeds aggression is part of their make-up, to a degree.

And the environment is a key factor in whether dogs show aggression. Millie’s owner, for example, reports that Millie is much more likely to “have a go” at another dog when she is on the lead, or even through a fence or gate as she walks past, than when she is off-lead in the park and running freely.

So what can be done? Will Millie be able to play happily in the park again, and enjoy a full dog social life, without the potential of a fight stressing her owner?

Millie is undergoing a training program at the moment, developing a deeper bond with her owner, and becoming a more confident and secure dog as a result – the opposite of the anxiety and uncertainty from which her aggressive behaviour sprang. The next step is  a planned program of exposure to other dogs, in various situations, while rewarding the “new” relaxed and confident Millie, so that things remain on an even keel.

Millie has a way to go yet, but with definite improvement so far, her owner is impressed!

We have all heard of Alzheimer’s Disease in people, but did you know that dogs (and cats too) can “lose their marbles” as they get older? And also that there are ways in which we can help to reverse the signs of this condition, deal with its effects and delay its progression?

A recent case of Dr Gabrielle Carter’s involved Monty, a 12 year-old desexed male Fox Terrier. Monty is “part of the family” and a much-loved dog. He sleeps in the lounge-room at night, but recently he has been waking up in the early hours, for no obvious reason, and “howling at the moon”. This is hardly easy-to-live-with behaviour, but Monty also seems genuinely distressed at these times and is hard to settle, which then worries his owner…. Also, sometimes Monty seems to “lose his concentration” and become suddenly unaware of his surroundings – even including his owner when he tries to get through to him.

Many owners put the signs of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction (as it is called) down to “getting old” and don’t even mention them to their veterinarian! While the problem is more common in older dogs, it is not simply due to age: Canine Cognitive Dysfunction is a real disease that all pet owners should be aware of – especially in the case of Monty’s owner, who had got to the point of considering euthanasia for his beloved dog because Monty’s distress and the sleepless nights he was causing for the whole household.

The signs of the condition vary, but include things such as:

• disorientation
•  changes in interactions with people
•  changes in the sleeping-and-waking pattern
•  loss of learnt house-training (soiling inside)
•  decreased (or increased) activity in general
•  anxiety and fearfulness

Another indicator may be the loss of the ability to find food that has been dropped on the floor – a notable deficit for most dogs!

Of course some of these behavioural changes can have other causes, so it’s important to have your dog thoroughly examined to rule out these other possibilities. In the case of Monty, he had just been examined for his vaccination, and was taken back to the vet the next day, with an empty tummy, for some blood tests.

What then can be done to treat the condition?

As with all behavioural conditions, treatment involves a combination of medication,  management, and behavioral modification.   Cognitive Dysfunction is a progressive disease, but medications can slow its progression, and improve the existing symptoms that your dog has developed, as well as dealing with associated problems such as anxiety and sleeplessness. Behaviour modification and diet are also vital parts of treatment. Your veterinarian will be able to help you to establish a suitable treatment regime – and Good Pet Behaviour is here to help if needed.

And Monty? Well he‘s much better, and his owner is very happy. Monty is on medication of two sorts – one to treat the condition directly, plus an anti-anxiety drug to help him (and his owner!) sleep at night – and he’s also on a new commercial diet specifically formulated for this condition. His owner is monitoring Monty carefully and taking steps to keep Monty mentally active within a structured and consistent routine. He thinks that after Monty’s long and happy life, which has given them both much pleasure, it’s the least he can do!

Muzzles are a management tool to prevent your dog from causing harm in situations where he may show aggression. They do not address the cause of the aggression, and muzzles should therefore be used as a management strategy, whilst working though a behaviour modification plan. They can also help to keep other dogs and people away, and in this way reduce the likelihood of your dog practicing aggression.

Muzzles are never a guarantee that your dog cannot injure another animal or person. Accidents happen and muzzles can come off or get caught on objects. Some dogs even learn to knock you with the muzzle and cause injury. You should continue to manage your dog to avoid him needing to show aggression, and always supervise him when he is wearing the muzzle.

Basket muzzles are preferred to the nylon muzzles that close the mouth. Dogs need to pant in order to regular their body temperature, and they can’t do this if their mouth is held shut. Basket muzzles also allow your dog to drink whilst wearing the muzzle and for you to give treats to your dog.

Helping your dog feel comfortable wearing a muzzle

The aim is to teach your dog that the muzzle is a ‘food bowl’ that they wear on their head (similar to a feed-bag for a horse). You want to teach your dog that the muzzle is associated with good things. Start by showing your dog the muzzle and when he sniffs it, give him a high value treat. Once he is relaxed touching the muzzle to get treats, start putting treats inside the muzzle and allowing him to eat out of the new ‘food bowl’. Do not try and put the muzzle on your dog. Instead, allow him to voluntarily put his head in the muzzle, for treats. You can cup your hand under the muzzle to hold it, so that food like liver or chicken do not fall out, or smear peanut butter, cheese spread or liverwurst inside the muzzle. Once your dog is eagerly putting his head in the muzzle it’s time to start doing up the neck strap.

Ensure there are some good long lasting treats at the end of the muzzle and whilst your dog is munching away, do up the neck strap. Immediately undo it. Repeat until your dog is comfortable with you clipping on the neck strap. Next leave the neck strap done up for a second or two, before releasing it. Ensure your dog is eating throughout this process, and push extra treats through the holes at the front and sides of the muzzle. Gradually, leave the muzzle on for longer, but only at a rate that does not cause your dog to show signs of distress. Freezing canned food or liverwurst in the end of the muzzle can provide a long lasting ‘popsicle’ for your dog.

The final step is to work with your dog whilst he is wearing the muzzle. Practice training exercises like sit, come and stay whilst he is wearing the muzzle. Give rewards by popping treats through the holes in the muzzle.

1. Using a small towel rub one cat, then the other and then the first cat again, then second cat again etc. This helps to mix the odor of the cats, and makes both cats smell ‘similar’ and therefore less unfamiliar.

2. Initially separate the cats into different areas of the house. They will still be able to hear and smell each other, but initially they will not have to confront each other visually. In this way they can gradually habituate to each others’ presence. Swap the cats between confinement areas, so that they get accustomed to the smell of the other cat.

3. Put the new cat and a bowl of highly desired food in a carrier at meal times. Carry the carrier with new cat inside, into the room where you will feed the other cat. Immediately, give the other cat its meal (again use highly desirable food). In this way each cat will associate the presence of the other with a pleasant experience.

When you first bring the carrier into the room, put it on an elevated surface, such as a table. If the cats do not react fearfully or aggressively place the carrier on the floor (ideally the cats are still eating their food).

4. Once the cats are eating well like this, you can then let the new cat out of the carrier. Play with the cats or give them treats. Avoid all negative experiences while introducing the cats.

5. Use Feliway spray or a diffuser (available from your veterinarian) in the room you use to introduce the cats.

6. Do not allow cats to ‘fight it out’.

7. When the cats are loose together in the house ensure they have separate ‘core areas’, where all their needs can be meet without having to interact with the other cat. A ‘core area’ should consist of food and water, a litter tray, scratching post and comfortable bed. Ensure these areas are separate enough that the cats can avoid each other if desired.

8. Provide plenty of toys, interactive items (tunnels, cardboard boxes), hiding places and elevated areas (e.g. shelves to sit on).

Due to the busy lifestyles that many of us lead, dogs can spend many hours at home alone each day, and left to their own devices will find ways to entertain themselves—this can lead to behavioural problems. So, when you are going to be away for a while make sure your dog has something to keep her busy. Below are some ideas. Take care to ensure there is no danger to your dog or others when engaging in any of these activities.

Environmental enrichment is only half the story. Dogs are social animals and a normal, well adjusted dog also requires quality time with you every day. Make time for this. Also, on top of adequate mental stimulation, don’t forget about some physical exercise appropriate to your dog’s needs. Walks off the home property should involve both time for sniffing and nosing around, as well as aerobic exercise.

BIRD FEEDER

The height and location needs to be such that the birds do not get caught or injured. Put out some breakfast scraps before going to work each morning. Some dogs will simply sit and watch the bird activity, others will occasionally charge, so the birds are startled, fly off and drop the food (which gets “hoovered” up), and others won’t let a bird near it all day. The occasional terrier will try and work out how to climb up the pole!

ICEBLOCK

Place some suitable food in an ice-cream container, fill with water, and freeze. Alternatively freeze a toy like a knotted rope in some water. As the ice melts, toys and treats become available for your dog.

DIGGING PIT

For dogs that love to dig, provide a suitable area where they can dig. Encourage them to dig in this area by burying treats, food, toys, etc in the digging pit. Start by burying of objects shallowly, gradually covering them more and making retrieval more difficult.

FOR BUSYBODIES

Some dogs just love to know what’s going on in the world. So provide some peepholes in fences, or perhaps a raised platform. A backyard with no entertainment and no view is a bit like a prison cell.

WADING POOL

Some dogs love water. If yours is one of them then why not encourage it by providing a wading pool. Children’s plastic molded pools are cheap and work well. Ensure that your dog can easily get in and out of the pool and that it is just paddling depth. Drop some treats or toys in the pool and encourage your dog to play. Chopped vegetables such as carrot float and can be added fun

FOOD DISPENSING TOYS

Consider feeding your dog all his/her meals from food dispensing items like those listed below. Remember to rotate the toys on a daily basis to maintain novelty.

THE KONG

“Kongs” are a great, durable toy. They can be stuffed with food, and left for your dog to work on during the day. Fill them with particularly sticky stuff, like peanut butter, and dogs will spend hours trying to lick out that last little bit. Be aware of fighting over food if you have more than one dog.

BUSTER CUBE

The “Buster Cube” is another great invention. You place dry food in the centre of the cube and the dog must push it around in order to get the food to fall out. It can take a little training before your dog works it out, but it can occupy some dogs for long periods of time.

TUG-A-JUG

This is another great food dispensing toy, which your dog learns to toss around to free the dry treats (liver, dry food) from inside.

BUSY-BUDDY TWIST AND TREAT

A flying saucer shaped toy you can fill with dry or sticky treats. Your dogs learns to toss it around to release dry treats, or lie down and find ways to lick out sticky contents

BOB-A-LOT

Another toy you can fill with treats and your dog learns to toss it around to release the yummy contents.

THE “HOME ALONE”

This is another quality toy that is great for dogs that love a game of “tug-of-war”. It consists of a tough cloth handle attached to an elastic, “bungy” type cord. As the dog pulls the elastic recoil provides a resisting tension. It has the added feature of a ball attached to the cord, into which you can put dry food. As the dog pulls on the handle, food falls out, and your dog’s efforts are rewarded. Your dog can occupy herself by tugging, then nibbling up the treats. These toys are not cheap, but are very durable. They are available from Aussie Dog (www.aussiedog.com.au), and good pet stores.

TREASURE HUNT

Leave your dog in the house (making sure she can’t peek outside) while you go into the garden and hide food, treats or toys. Partially bury some and put others under or inside other articles. Let your dog out and allow her to ‘hunt’ for her meal. Start by making it easy for her to find things, so she gets the hang of it, then start really making her work for the rewards.

HUNTING FOR DINNER

Before leaving for work in the morning, or going out to dinner in the evening, throw your dog a meal of dry food. Simply throw it into the garden or over the lawn. That should keep her busy for a while!

THE TERMINATOR

For the dog that destroys! Why not provide her with something cheap to destroy—a soft toy from a fete or op shop (beware of plastic eyes and stuffing contents), of even a cardboard box (if you don’t mind cleaning up the pieces afterwards). Be careful with dogs that ingest foreign material, and avoid any dangerous materials.

Cats in the wild would generally eat 12 small meals a day. This means they would hunt and capture rodents, birds, grasshoppers etc throughout the day. For many domestic cats these types of activities remain rewarding and can help reduce stress and increase activity levels. Providing your cat with an interactive environment can help ensure mental well-being.

It is important for cats to feel safe and secure in their home environment. Create an environment in your home that provides elevated platforms and hiding holes to improve your cat’s sense of security. Here’s some additional ideas for environmental enrichment.

‘HUNTING’ FOR FOOD

Feed your cat’s meals from food dispensing items. You can purchase treat balls that your cat has to push around to make dry food fall out, or try stuffing a cat Kong® with moist food, so your cat has to manipulate it to lick out the tasty insides. Alternatively, you can hide food around the house, and teach your cat to search for her meals.

PUZZLE FEEDER

This is an inexpensive, home-made feeding device that will keep your cat working for her dinner. Start with a plastic under-bed storage container (minimum size 30mmX60mm). Cut a hole at one end of the lid just large enough for your cat to put her head through. Over the remainder of the lid cut slits large enough for your cat to put her paws through. Ensure all cut edges are smooth and will not injury your cat. Place dry food in the container and replace the lid. Teach your cat to pat the dry food down to the head hole, where she can then eat it. Start by placing most of the dry food near the head hole, and over time make the exercise more difficult by spreading the food throughout the container.

OTHER TOYS

Have an array of toys for your cat and rotate these on a daily basis to maintain their novelty. Schedule a routine time in your day when you play with your cat (e.g. after dinner, before breakfast). There are a range of toys available for cats from good pet supply stores—feathers on a wand and catnip mice made of rabbit fur are particularly popular. You can also make your own. A simple toy can be made with a cardboard box and some small inciting items like bells in a ball, or stuffed toy mice. Place the items in the box and seal the lid. Cut some holes on all sides of the box that are large enough for your cat to get her paws into, but not large enough to get the items out. Watch her work!

CATNIP

Whether your cat responds to catnip or not will depend on her genetic make-up. Not all cats get a kick out of catnip. If she does then access to catnip—either dried or fresh, can provide additional stimulation in her life. Don’t worry, you will know if she likes it or not—there will be lots of rolling and rubbing if she has a positive response.

SCATCHING POST

Scratching is a normal feline behaviour. When cats scratch they like to stretch out along the entire length of their bodies, and therefore prefer scratching poles that are long enough to enable them to do this. Scratching posts can be orientated anywhere between vertical and horizontal depending on your cat’s preference—some cats like to scratch on both surfaces that are vertical and at an angle to horizontal. Individual cats also have preferences for different types of scratching surfaces – some like timber, others carpet or fabric. To prevent your cat scratching the furniture/door frames, provide them with something better. Determine what surface they like to scratch on and provide this in a preferred area.

VISUAL STIMULATION

Interactive stimulation is best for cats, however, watching something engaging can also be entertaining. Consider putting a bird feeder outside a window, or provide a fish tank to observe (ensure your cat cannot capture or torment the birds or fish). Alternatively you can search the internet for videos of fish and birds designed to entertain your cat.

OUTDOOR RUNS AND WALKING ON A HARNESS

Many owners are choosing to prevent their cats wandering the neighbourhood, and keep their cats indoors. Some cats adjust well to this arrangement however, many still enjoy time outdoors. Consider installing an outdoor run or training your cat to accept wearing a harness and take her for daily walks. Initially build a positive association with the harness, by putting in on before feeding your cat. Allow her to get used to walking in it around the home, before taking her outside. Use treats to lure her to experiment walking with the harness on.

A SAFE AND SECURE HOME

Cats often feel safer and more secure in elevated locations. Try to provide your cat access to raised platforms. For example, provide access to the top of bookcases, or the top of cupboards. By using this vertical space in your home you can essentially double the size of your home from your cat’s perspective.

Cats also often like closed in hiding holes. You might consider providing access to cupboards or wardrobes, or better still install a cubbie or two on one of the elevated platforms. A commercial cat tree can help satisfy some of these needs, as some of these products are reasonably tall and incorporate covered in cubbies.

MULTI-CAT HOUSEHOLDS

Many cats enjoy having some alone time away from other cats in the household. Especially, if there is social tension between any of the cats, having their own space can help reduce a lot of tension and stress. In multi-cat households we recommend establishing ‘core areas’ for each cat. The core area is a place where each cat can get all their needs met, without having to interact with other cats in the household. Each core area should have food, water, a comfortable bed, scratching post and litter tray, and preferably be in an area where the cat likes to hang out. Consider use of vertical space as described above when fitting out core areas.

The arrival of a new baby is associated with many changes that pets can find stressful. There are new sounds, smells and furniture and changes in routine. Your pet may also be anxious or fearful of the baby, especially if they have not met babies before. To try and smooth the transition you need to (1) make as many changes as possible well in advance of the baby arriving, and (2) ensure early introductions to the baby are positive and pleasant.

Before the baby arrives

Think about how you would like your pet to behave when the baby is in the house. Decide on house rules such as no jumping up, or that the baby’s room is off limits and be consistent with them. Changes to feeding, sleeping, play and litter tray locations should be made gradually before the baby arrives. Address any unruly behaviours, and ensure your pet responds reliably to basic obedience commands, like, ‘sit’, ‘stay’ and ‘go to mat’. Your pet will know what is expected of them and you will have some good commands to use when managing your pet around the baby. Practice these commands in the home, on walks and when visitors are over. If you have any concerns about your pet’s behaviour or they have shown aggression in the past, or are fearful of children, seek advice from a veterinary behaviourist. Resolve any behaviour problems before the baby arrives.

A baby will definitely mean that less time will be available for your pet. Gradually decrease the amount of time you spend with your pet and encourage independent behaviours by giving your pet a stuffed Kong® or chew toy in another room, so that they learn to experience time away from you as positive and rewarding. In particular, ignore all attention seeking behaviour, such as pawing, whining or barking, staring or jumping at you. Instead, you should initiate all interactions with your pet, and only do this when they are calm and relaxed and not seeking attention.

Introduce new smells, sights, sounds and routines. Play recordings of baby sounds, and make this a positive experience by giving attention or treats at the same time. Once your pet is comfortable around these sounds, enlist the help of friends or relatives with young children. Walk your dog with a child in a stroller, and/or carry a baby around in the house, giving treats or attention to your pet in order to build a positive association with these situations. Accustom your dog to walking with a pram, and remember to reward desirable behaviours. Encourage children to play quietly at one end of the room, whilst you have your pet controlled (e.g. on leash) and give food rewards and/or play with them, to again establish a good association.

It may be helpful to bring home bedding, clothes or nappies from the hospital to accustom your pet to the new smells before the baby arrives. Again associate these smells with attention or treats.

When the baby arrives

When the baby arrives home be sure to keep all associations with the baby positive and pleasant. Only introduce your pet when they are calm and relaxed and always praise them for good behaviour. When the baby is in the room with your pet give your pet lots of attention (one parent can hold the baby and the other can give attention to the pet). When the baby is out of the room, stop giving attention. From your pet’s perspective the baby will then predict attention. Additionally you can ask you pet to stay on their mat and give a favorite toy or treat, when the baby is around. Feed your pet, give attention and play with them when the baby is in the room. Take your dog outside for play or a walk when you take the child out. Avoid punishing or yelling at your pet. If your pet becomes unruly or over-excited, then both you and the baby leave the room, or unemotionally remove your pet from the room.

Using a synthetic pheromone diffuser in the home can also help reduce anxiety in some pets. This may be particularly useful for cats who find adapting to change difficult. These products are available from your veterinarian.

Aggression

If your pet shows aggression towards the child – either when first introduced, or later on as the child starts moving around and interacting with the pet, seek advice from a veterinary behaviourist. They will be able to accurately determine why your pet is showing aggression, determine the prognosis (the chances of safe and effective treatment), and develop an effective treatment program. Any animal that has shown aggression to a child should be safely managed around children. Dogs should be kept on leash and under the owner’s control, fitted with a basket muzzle and supervised, or crated in the presence of children. Aggressive cats should be confined away from children, or crated, or restrained on leash and harness, and supervised around children.

Children – general comments

Never leave your pet and a baby alone no matter how much you trust your pet. No child under seven years of age should be left unsupervised with any pet. Some children will need to be supervised with pets until they are much older.

Supervision may involve one adult supervising the child and another the dog, as both children and dogs can be unpredictable, and require appropriate management. Prevention is by far the safest path.

As children grow and develop their behaviour changes. The baby that was carried everywhere starts to crawl and toddle. They start interacting with your pet in ways that your pet may interpret as threatening, or that causes your pet to become fearful, or possibly aggressive. You need to continue to supervise all interactions and intervene before your pet feels threatened or frightened.

A helpful reference book is ‘Living with Kids and Dogs Without Losing Your Mind: a parent’s guild to controlling the chaos’, by Colleen Pellar.

The aim of crate training is to create a safe, secure place for your dog, where s/he feels calm and relaxed. The crate can be used for house-training, preventing destructive behaviours, and keeping your dog safe when you are unable to supervise her/him. It also provides a safe retreat for your dog to go when s/he needs an escape from the crazy human world (e.g children, other pets, stressful situations etc.) Some dogs will even take themselves ‘off to bed’ in the evenings.

Choosing a crate

Wire, plastic and tough nylon crates are available. The wire and nylon crates are collapsible, making them easy to transport. For dogs with noise phobias the metal wire crates are sometimes a little ‘scary’. Many dogs prefer the ‘closed in’, den-like effect of the plastic and nylon crates, although you can create a similar effect with wire crates by covering them with a blanket.

The crate should be large enough for your dog to easily stand up, with the head in a normal elevated position. Your dog must be able to turn around, and stretch out fully when lying down.

Training your dog to love the crate

The following information can be applied to any area, other than a crate, that you may wish to use as a safe, secure confinement area for your dog, e.g. a room.

Place the crate in an area that is easily accessible, but not in a thoroughfare. Ensure it has a comfortable bed inside. Leave the door of the crate open. Encourage your dog to enter and explore the crate by tossing high value treats into the crate. You can feed your dog in the crate, leaving the door open so your dog can come and go as s/he pleases. Hide treats and toys (e.g. chew bones, stuffed Kongs®) in the crate, so when your dog enters the crate it is associated with a rewarding experience. Never use the crate for time out, or as a punishment. In this way the crate you can build a positive and relaxing association with the crate. You can even tether a Kong or chew bone in the back of the crate, so your dog stays in the crate to chew it. Once your dog is accustomed to the crate and enters on his own, you can start to shut the door for a second or two. As you shut the crate, push a tasty treat through the door. Your dog will learn that shutting the door means a treat is on the way. Next give your dog a longer lasting treat as you shut the door and open the door before s/he finishes. Over time you can gradually delay opening the door, so that your dog learns to stay calmly and quietly in the crate.

Do’s and Don’ts

Never open the crate when your dog is crying or barking, or you will inadvertently teach your dog to vocalize in the crate. Instead wait until s/he is calm and quiet before letting your dog out. If your dog is crying or pawing to get out, then you may have progressed too quickly with crate training and need to go back a few steps to ensure you build a positive association with being crated.

Your dog should spend time in the crate when you are home. This will teach your dog that going to the crate does not always signal that you are about to leave the house.

With young puppies ensure you give them an opportunity to urinate/defecate before putting them in the crate. It is also helpful to play with your pup before putting her/him in the crate. This increases the likelihood of them falling to sleep and learning that the crate is a place for relaxing and being calm.

Using the crate for house-training puppies

Most puppies have a natural instinct to keep their ‘den’ area clean. Therefore, most puppies will try not to urinate or defecate in the crate. When you are unable to supervise your puppy you can put her/him in the crate, to prevent accidents in the house. A young puppy should not be crated for more than 3-4 hours at a time, without being given the opportunity to urinate/defecate outside. Do not make your puppy eliminate in the crate by expecting her/him to ‘hold on’ longer than s/he is physically able. Remember to reward all outdoor elimination.